Slow to get up and get going today (again). Beautiful day: bright sun and cool breeze. Start hiking around 11:30 and pause right before lunch to fish a particular inviting stretch of the Ekwi River (right after we spook a nice bull caribou). Not much luck with the fishing (John catches one large grayling) but the scenery is unforgettable. Carry-on after lunch. Pause at Old Squaw Lodge (one of the Dechenla camps) for a cup of tea, then press on to our campsite near Caribou Pass – the same site we stayed in last time (2007) – and stop hiking around 5:30. Fish the Ekwi that evening and we all catch a grayling. First catch on Steve's new fly rod. Tonight is Bill's turn for the poetry recitation. He performs a dramatic (and well-done) rendition of Robert Service's "The Cremation of Sam McGee".